Exploring the Champagne Region
This past December, we spent a few weeks traveling in Europe, beginning our vacation in France. As I was working through our itinerary, given the celebratory time of year, I thought it would be the perfect time to experience a little of the region that gave us the bubbly drink symbolic of celebration and I planned a visit for us to the Champagne region.
To be called Champagne, this sparkling wine must be made in the Champagne appellation of France using the Méthode Champenoise.
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Gaining insight into the rich and complex tradition of Champagne and enjoying a few tastings was a good enough reason to spend time here. Plus, beyond the bubbles, the region has a noteworthy history and is home to one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture and a market reputed to be one of the best in the country.
We began our day with an early start in Reims, one of the main towns in the region.
After meeting our guide, we headed to the square of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims, and along the way our guide shared with the two of us the history of Reims, the Cathedral and its significance in French history. Having a local resident of Reims as our guide made all the difference. He shared his experiences of everyday living in this unique region and it was apparent how much he loved living here. He also was clearly knowledgeable about the town’s history and passionate about Champagne and Champagne production. He shared with us how much Champagne is part of the day to day experience of living in this area, whether it is working in some aspect of its production or in the tourism of the region or whether it is just enjoying a glass with a meal or with friends.
Christmas Market, Reims, France, December 2019
Our timing was perfect to visit the Cathedral as the town still was waking up, quiet and peaceful before the day started. The Christmas market, which takes place in the square in front of the Cathedral, had not opened yet for the day. We would come back later to browse the festive market. Although we visited a few other markets on this trip, this was probably one of our favorites with its very authentic and local feel. As the sun was going down later that evening, it had such a beautiful glow and a warm, friendly atmosphere.
The Cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was the site where French kings were coronated for centuries. Although it (and its predecessors) suffered damage at various times during history, including WWI, much of it was fortunately reconstructed resulting in the splendid piece of French High Gothic architecture you see today.
Images of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims, December 2019
As typical of the style, the cathedral rises into the sky, with supporting buttresses, pointed arches, a large rose window, and fine intricate carvings. The colorful stained-glass windows date from different periods, ranging from some preserved from the Middle Ages to more modern ones, created by artists including Marc Chagall and Imi Knoebel. There is even one that celebrates Champagne production done in a medieval style that our guide pointed out.
In 2015, the Champagne hillsides, houses and cellars were listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site. To be called Champagne, this sparkling wine must be made in the Champagne appellation of France. The specific grape varietals used to make Champagne must also be grown in the region and Champagne must be made using a very specific process, the Méthode Champenoise.
There are several houses, including the world famous ones, that can be visited. Since we were limited to a day, the company I worked with to organize our experience curated a selection of visits that provided us with a well-rounded view of the region.
Champagne caves, December 2019
First, we met an expert at one of the oldest and largest classic houses (maisons) in the region. He shared the heritage of Champagne production with us in detail along with the history of the house. We were guided through the complicated process and the factors that go into making this wine, including the grape varietals, the styles, the sweetness levels, the regional classifications (Premier Cru and Grand Cru) and the aging process of vintage vs. non-vintage Champagnes. We toured through the vast complex of the old chalk cellars followed by a toast and a glass of sparkle.
Afterwards, we drove along the Route du Champagne through the landscape of hills and plains, which were covered with vineyards and fields. Of course, the terrain, along with the clay and limestone rich soil and climate all contribute to the product. Though the vines were bare given the season, the drive was still very scenic. We passed by World War I memorial sites as well; this is an area that was quite devastated by the war.
Cheese shop at the Christmas Market, Reims, France, December 2019
The visit to the large estate was the perfect start to our Champagne exploration as it served as a stark contrast to our other two visits. We went on to visit a smaller family estate, which was a very special experience. Here, the family both grows the grapes and produces the wine. We were introduced to their production, which was quite different than the first house, and we enjoyed a tasting with one of the family members and met the founder. To complement the other two visits, the third visit was to a cooperative where multiple growers collectively pool their grapes, skills, and production under a single label.
When in France, the gastronomy is often a highlight and this day was no different as we savored a delicious three-course lunch. Each course was perfectly paired with a Champagne that took every bite to another level. While we typically sip Champagne with an hors d’oeuvre, or by itself, coupling it with the meal gave me a newfound appreciation of how well Champagne can complement food.
Our day in Champagne was wonderful and was one of the highlights of our time in France. However, we only scratched the surface. We would love to go back for a visit, perhaps for a couple of days the next time to visit more estates. We would also like to explore other towns, historical and cultural sites that we couldn’t get to in the area. Our day wouldn’t have been the same without our passionate and enthusiastic guide as he helped us make the best of our time and enabled us to gain a deeper understanding of the region.
Interested in your own tailor-made experience? Contact us to plan your future journey here.